Brewing - From Field to Grain to Glass
New Heritage Barley crop trials, 2019
Feast’s first contribution to the Beer & Berries programme explored grain in all its forms - from seed to crop and product. Reflecting the location of Hospitalfield in the region of Angus where the majority, if not all of the cereal crops grown go to large malting companies Feast explored different approaches to growing grains - from the contemporary movement towards using population strands of grain, to the use of heritage varieties of crop and the establishment of the Barley Hub at The James Hutton Institute, Dundee.
Farmer Peter Lungdren inspecting the quality of his co-farmed field of wheat as part of the Ourfield project 2018
A day of talks
We invited Abby Rose of Farmerama Radio to talk about her involvement in the project A Field of Wheat by artists Anne-Marie Culhane and Ruth Levene, and her subsequent initiation of #Ourfield. Following the model formed by Culhane and Levene #Ourfield saw 42 people invested in a field of grain in Hertfordshire making collective decisions on the farming and use of the final crop. An interview with the artists and Abby can be heard in the dedicated edition of Famerama here
Further exploring the potential for communal growing and ownership of commercial crops, Anne Bodkin introduced audiences to the ongoing project Grow Beer. In brief, Grow Beer is a “patchwork farm” initiative where people grow hops in their back gardens, balconies and allotments for the local craft brewing industry. Founded by Ann Bodkin and Helen Steer in 2011, the Grow Beer model was first tested with Brixton Beer Co. The experimental nature of the model has helped to nurture other growing clusters across the UK, whilst cultivating a respect for heritage hop varieties and supporting regional beer production. The idea has been adopted in more than 20 towns and cities across England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland and twins towns across Europe.
Discussing a movement towards using heritage varieties in brewing Sarah DeVos founder of New Heritage Barley discussed her research into grains, their benefits for disease resistance, and the desirability of particular grains for the brewing industry.
Following a discussion on growing heritage varieties and the benefits for both soil health, disease resistance and flavour, Kirsty Black Master Distiller at Arbikie Highland Estate introduced her role at Arbkie and their sustainable field to glass approach where the flavour of the final product is intrinsically formed by the surrounding landscape and its crops.
BEYOND BEER & BERRIES
Our research for the inaugural programme at Beer & Berries further informed Feast's contribution to the exhibition John Barlycorn Must Die at New Brewery Arts, Cirencester. A collaboration with artist Matt Rowe, the exhibition reflected upon the story and tradition of John Barleycorn.
Appearing in a 17th Century English folk song of the same name, John Barleycorn is the personification of barley and its associated food and drink. The lyrics detail the lifecycle of barley from grain to harvest to bread and beer and the seemingly indestructible spirit of the crop. Meeting, socialising and working with individuals in the locality of New Brewery Arts
Matt, supported by Feast developed a number of collaborative works which re-considered the John Barleycorn myth and its resonance within contemporary Cirencester, a town famed for its agricultural connections.